Basics of Aquarium Plumbing Types and Sizes of Planning Hardware
With all aquarium setups (saltwater and freshwater), you must ensure that the pipe and fittings you use for plumbing are both intended for potable water use (can safely treat potable water) and are corrosion and scale resistant. You can ensure that these requirements are met by using one of the following types of ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) material. Typically only used for drainage in homes as it cannot withstand much pressure or heat. This is usually black in color. ABS is the cheapest pipe and fittings that can be used.
It is only suitable for drain lines and should not be used for pressurized applications.
PVC (polyvinyl chloride). Most commonly used because it can withstand a range of pressure and some heat. It can be used in residential and commercial drinking water supply (cold water supply only). It is generally the cheapest choice for almost any aquarium setup, as well as the most commonly used for pressure and drain lines.
You can get it in flexible and rigid pipes (flexible PVC has lower pressure values). It is usually white in color.
CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride). Most commonly used in commercial and/or industrial applications. It can handle both hot and cold drinking water supply.
This is usually a shade of gray. Although it can be used in an aquarium, it is one of the more expensive options.
PEX (cross-linked polyethylene). Slowly becoming the most widely used product in the construction of new homes for the supply of hot and cold potable water. It is produced in both flexible and rigid pipes while maintaining the same nominal pressure.
PEX is usually a white, almost transparent color. Although it can be used for both pressure lines and drain lines, it is also a very expensive option, as special tools are required to connect the PEX fittings.
PVC and CPVC are also available in different grades/thicknesses to accommodate higher and higher pressures. heat limits on both pipe and fittings. This is done using the planning system. The wall thickness of the pipe and fittings is indicated by a "program" number.
The range from sch (program) 40 to sch 160. Generally, you will find sch 40 (regular) and program 80 (extra heavy) available at most hardware stores. Schemes 120 and 160 are not commonly used or available in retail stores.
Flow Loss
The following list is more of a rule of thumb with an in-line only flow loss calculation and pressure return. They may not be hardened to 100°, as many other factors can affect these calculations.
They will be close enough that you can get an accurate estimate of the bitrate reduction. The following factors will become very important when planning your installation.
• A loss of 75 to 125 GPH per foot of lift (from pump to display tank return)
• A loss of 50 to 75 GPH for each 90 degree elbow
• A leak 30-50 GPH for each 45 degree elbow
• 50-75 GPH leak for each twist check valve
• 20-40 GPH leak for each ball valve
> • ~3-5 GPH leak for each fitting
Below are some of the other fittings that are commonly used and most likely can be used in your setup.
PVC fittings
These are very useful accessories to have in your installation. This can allow you to quickly disconnect part of the system and then reconnect without having to worry about sticking or resealing anything.
A perfect example would be to use a fitting to connect the return pump to the system. This way you can quickly remove the pump from the hydraulic system, clean it, and then reconnect the pump with minimal downtime. In more complicated configurations, it allows you to make the plumbing system in different sections before quickly connecting them to each other. Using fittings is also a good idea when working at tight/small cadences, as you can join the lines elsewhere before connecting the system together. They are available in standard and sch 80 PVC for socket welding and threaded/screwed connections
Bulkhead flanges
On equipment using tank with holes in the glass, the bulkhead flange attaches to this hole, allowing us to connect plumbing lines on either side of the hole while providing a tight seal to the glass that will withstand pressure.
They can also come in normal PVC and sch 80 for socket welding and threaded/threaded connections. The most common bulkhead flanges are threaded.
Valves
There are three main types of valves that are most common in aquarium setups, swing check valves, ball check valves, and ball valves. Each has a different use in a plumbing setup.
Toggle check valves allow water movement in only one direction.
It has a plate/gate inside the valve that will open when pressure is applied to only one side of it. It will close when pressure is applied to the other side. Many people install check valves on the return line to the main tank to prevent water from flowing back into the sump if the return pump stops working (for example, in the event of a power outage).
There are several types of check valves, but the swing check valve is one of the most commonly used. The best quality swing check valves are designed to operate without a spring assembly but slightly restrict flow. They are available in normal PVC and sch 80 for welded and threaded/threaded connections. The following diagram shows how the inside of a swing check valve works. Exact designs vary between different manufacturers
Ball check valves serve the same purpose as a swing check valve.
Ball check valves are another very simple type of check valve that allows water to flow in only one direction through the valve. The valve uses a PVC ball and the force of water to operate.
Please note that a ball check valve works best when installed in a vertical line, not in a horizontal line as pictured above.
Ball valves are used to control flow and/or to shut off flow. It is essentially a sphere with a hole drilled completely through it which also has the same internal diameter as the tube it is connected to.
When the handle is turned in the same direction as the pipe, the hole lines up with the pipe and the valve is fully open. When the handle is turned away from the pipe, the hole is turned the other way and the valve is fully closed. They are also available in normal PVC and sch 80 for solder and screw connections.
Drilled or Undrilled
One of the last things you will need to decide if your display tank will be drilled or not. If the tank is punctured, it is also recommended to have an internal or external overflow for the drain line.
I always recommend a perforated tank.
Putting it all together
As mentioned earlier, there are two traditional ways to connect your plumbing when using PVC and/or ABS materials. One method involves using a combination of threaded fittings and solvent welding (AKA gluing) and a second using only solvent welding (glued) fittings.
A) Planning flow
Step 1: how much flow through the display tank
I had decided to use the traditional rule of thumb . I set a goal to have 10 times the volume of the display tank flowing through the cup.
This flow rate is very close to the maximum recommended flow rate for my skimmer and I can add a head to the live rock compartment as that would be the only compartment that requires a higher flow rate. Since I have a 120 gallon tank, that would mean I need 1200 GPH of flow. But am I willing to settle for anything between 1000-1400 gph
Step 2: Perforated Tank or Not (Gravity Feed or Siphon Drain Line)?
When it comes to gravity draining, there are two common approaches to controlling the air/water mixture to achieve a quiet drain. One approach is to use two drain lines, one line containing a valve to restrict the water flow to match the air flow (resulting in silent draining), and the second is used as a backup drain in the event of a clog from the first main drain line.
This type of approach has different common names, such as: weed overflow, animal bean, coast to coast
The second approach is to use a single drain line and control/limit the airflow to create a quiet drain. This is commonly referred to as a Duriso seat tube. This is my preferred approach because the plumbing is easier to install and, in my opinion, less likely to clog because you're not restricting the flow of water down the drain.
When I bought a new tank, I took a pre-drilled one for a return line and drain line with internal overflow, I put in a duriso riser. Gravity drains are my preferred method of installing a tank because you can calculate how much water can flow into the sump if the return pump stops working, preventing water from reaching the ground.
My two reef tanks were set up this way because we have frequent power outages while we live. I chose the gravity feed system over a siphon based system for several reasons. The last point is that I feel I can be sure that the gravity feed system won't fail and a gravity based system will make the least noise when assembled correctly.
Water flows through the 90 degree elbow at the top and bottom of the pipe through the bulkhead flange and into the plumbing line to the sump. In the upper part there is an air hole which allows a constant and uniform flow of water.
This will give you an extremely quiet exhaust line. There is no actual size defined for the air hole. It may be trial and error. I had made an adjustable air hole by drilling a 5/8 inch hole through the side of the cap and the side of the riser. It is adjusted slightly by twisting the cap to make the hole that controls the airflow smaller or larger.
By using an adjustable air hole, you can achieve maximum flow and keep the exhaust extremely quiet (pictured below). You can also use an oversized hole (eg ¾ inch) and an air valve.
The only downside to a Durso hydrant with internal overflow is that uneaten food, sludge, etc. can build up on the bottom and sides of the overflow over time.
Remember that you must drill the hole ½ to ¾ inch larger than the pipe and fitting size the bulkhead flange is designed for. For example, if you want a 1 inch ball head flange, you will need a 1 ¾ inch hole in your tank.
Installing the Siphon is a bit more complicated. Here is the most commonly used design.
Aquarium Plumbing
It is designed to be an unbreakable siphon. In the event of a power failure, the tank only empties to the point where the suction is out of the water and is said to start emptying again once the pump returns to the water line is above aspiration.
So there are alternative products for a trap system that uses pre-assembled overflow boxes like the one in the link below.
These products are usually available at stores that sell saltwater aquarium products. An example can be found in the link below.
Staging/planning of the installation.
Step 4: Plan the layout.
I drew a simple diagram of how I wanted to assemble the plumbing.
I kept in mind how much space I had in the pit, the size of the pit, and where I wanted to put all the gear in the pit so that there was no plumbing on the way. Also, I didn't need a swing check valve on the return line or on the drain lines, because I made sure the sump had room for all the drain in the sump of the main tank in case the return pump stops working.
Step 5: Calculate the flow loss on the return line.
Based on: 4 feet high, three 90 degree elbows, two fittings and a ball valve, there would be an estimated leak of 650 gph. That would mean I would need a return pump with a flow rate of 1650-2100 gph.
Since the drain line has no significant pressure, any flow loss due to just two elbows and one fitting would not be significant.
Step 6: Choose a return pump
I ended up getting a pump with a flow rate of 1800 gph which results in excessive flow through the bowl of 1150 gph. It also means that I don't need to update the size of my pipes and fittings or increase the size of the. All of the other factors that go into selecting a kickback pump are a subject best left for another article.
Step 7: Assembly
Having got everything I needed, along with the correct cements, I started.
I measured and cut the first pieces of pipe first and assembled the plumbing lines as I went. I haven't used any glues at this point. Once everything was built and positioned as I wanted, I marked each joint with a black marker. That way, when I took it apart to apply the concrete, I only had to line up the two marks on each connection to make sure it was reassembled the way I had dry-fitted it. It gives me the ability to adjust things before gluing, as well as gluing some of the plumbing on the outside, where I don't have to worry so much about making a big mess
Step 8: Try it out.
After letting the newly glued fittings cure for 24 hours, I filled them with fresh water and turned on the return pump. I found a small leak which was quickly fixed by tightening the bulkhead clamp. I let it run for a few days until I adjusted the air intake so the exhaust line had minimal noise.
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